29 November 2011

Travelogue: Srinagar












Srinagar! There is a whole heap of psychological trauma one must navigate before one arrives at this fabled shangri-la! The over-riding arc of concern seems to be 'Is it safe?' before I go there, and 'tell them it's safe' when I get there. Of course, I can only go by my own experience – I found Srinagar to be perfectly safe. It was the getting there that had me in trauma!!
Sharing a jeep from Jammu to Srinagar. It's the National Highway, so a well-maintained road, but perhaps because  it was my first real road-trip beyond the Himalayan foothills, I was alarmed by the hairpin curves and sheer drops. The SCALE of the beauty on offer is tremendous. The highest mountains and the deepest valleys I can recall seeing. Perhaps the element of mortality clouding my senses heightened the appreciation. Reminds me of this quote:
“ beauty is nothing but the beginning of terror, that we are still able to bear”
(Rilke, Duino Elegies)

I could identify with that!!

We were finally deposited at Dal Lake after I had thanked my Lords many times over and resolved to FLY back to Delhi!





Away from the lake, Srinagar is mesmerisingly beautiful mostly thanks to the Mughal gardens that abound. I visited four and my camera got a workout! The flowers are something else......Interestingly, I was the only white foreigner in the gardens that day, so had the camera turned on me a fair few times too!

The city is quite vast. I covered lots by foot but to see most of the sites required a rickshaw tour.
The 3000 y.o.ancient Shiva temple of Shankaracharya Hill is stunning, and there are many beautiful mosques to visit including the unparalleled Jamia Masjid with its 370 wooden pillars.

Perhaps most intoxicating of all is the simple shrine for Jesus Christ! Khanyar Rozabal (Kan Yar Rosa Bal or Rauza Bal) , the tomb of Yuz Asaf.  I had read the case for this being the actual resting place of Jesus on this website and you can see photos of the tomb on this website

It's in an unassuming part of town. The rickshawallah would not drive me to the spot but parked discreetly around the corner. He warned me against taking photos, and there is ample signage to dissuade one from doing so. I was surprised to find such a low-key set-up, with no visible security. Apart from 'local' security – a 4 year old boy raised the alarm and from that moment, it seems funny to say, but I could literally 'feel' all eyes on me! There is no entry to the shrine itself. A window (railed) looks on the tomb from the street, inside you can see banknotes which have been donated for maintenance I guess. Occasionally a local would walk by and bless themselves in passing.

The simple and dignified resting place for a great Saint, revered through generations of the local community. A world and belief system away from the official party line. If this is true, then it changes everything...it's a fascinating proposition.

All this plus.......there are a handful of amazing daytrips from Srinagar to explore the stunning landscapes of Kashmir. My favourite was a pony ride to an ice glacier in Sonmarg!
Best of all, there's a Srinagar to suit every climate. Spring, summer, autumn and winter all paint vastly differing moods.

Next post will deal with Houseboat Fever!!






27 November 2011

Attention!



NAMASKAR
LIFE IS SHORT, FIX YOUR MIND ON GOD
TIME IS PASSING FAST, YOUR DEATH IS WAITING
FOLLOW YOUR INTUITION, LISTEN TO YOUR INNER VOICE
OPEN YOUR THIRD EYE, WAKE UP
EVERYTHING IS POSSIBLE, GOD BLESS YOU
UNIVERSAL LOVE.

I saw it in in a Pahar Ganj restaurant (backpacker zone of Delhi). Very well positioned and I had just arrived in India too, first day....could this be a sign? I scanned the poster for reference to a sponsor or organisational body but none to be found...strange. This just made the contents 500 times more interesting and mystical, as if a direct message was being conveyed...it had the effect of personalizing the instructions.
I decided it was a wonderful prompt and may never know the source. That's okay, my logical mind has had to learn to yield to many unresolvable issues once in India...all part of the charm!
However, Google is our friend! 
There is a very nice man and story behind this poster...kudos to Amy and  mistranslation blog..... check it out here!

24 November 2011

RIP Farrokh Bulsara.

Known to you and I as Freddie Mercury, today is the 20th anniversary of his death.

As singer of the English rock group Queen, Freddie became the western world's most celebrated singer and showman to this day. Indeed, even in death his album sales are said to have doubled and even to have eclipsed those of The Beatles.

 Mercury was born on the island of Zanzibar, off the coast of Tanzania. His parents, Bomi and Jer Bulsara, were Parsis from the Gujarati region of the then province of Bombay Presidency in British India. The family surname is derived from the town of Bulsar (also known as Valsad) in southern Gujarat. As Parsis, the family practiced the Zoroastrian religion. The family had moved to Zanzibar in order for his father to continue his job as a cashier at the British Colonial Office. Mercury attended St. Peter's School, a boarding school for boys in Panchgani near Bombay (now Mumbai), India

 Watch this wonderful video which shows Freddie's Indian childhood. It is strange that in life, he played down his Indian roots so much, and in death he has not been reclaimed by the Indian community. Or that the man in the street doesn't know the world's greatest rock star was...Indian!
 

17 November 2011

Bundi: Children of the Light


Looking like extras from a 'new wave'-inspired fashion shoot, these youngsters come into their own when the load shedding kicks in and they alone are left to quite literally carry the light!

From Bundi, Rajhasthan

15 November 2011

Travelogue: Gangotri

MODEL:: PRAMOD:)

I recently visited Gangotri with the Isha Dhyan Yatra tour, which is similar to the Garwhal Char Dham but replaces Yamunotri with Uttarkashi and Guptakashi. The attraction here is to make a pilgrimage to the source of the Ganga. I have to say my experience was much more pleasant than the daunting picture painted in the guidebooks! I would have to credit a lot of that to the timing of the trip, very late September after the rain/landslides, and a nice bright clear day before the onset of  snow! It felt like a very opportune and exacting window of opportunity.

To make this pilgrimage one would arrive by roads to Gangotri. This beautiful little town is picture postcard perfect, as you would imagine. The priceless clarity of  Ganga (Bhagirathi river) rushing  in all her unspoilt purity makes for a captivating spectacle and i can still conjur up the soothing sound of her approach! There is a sweet little market here and a lovely temple. But don't get too comfortable! To get to the actual source of Ganga requires an 18km trek to Gaumukh. A rather unassuming little path heralds the ascent. You are basically walking parallel to the river through extraordinarily beautiful terrain. Most unusually, there are no traders or services for this sacred pilgrimage. I'm told due to ecological interference regarding misusage of wood burning everybody has been cleared out. Even the number of trekkers is limited to i think 150 a day. That means no food, no local economy, no beggars. Even ponies don't ply this route. Instantly, the trek itself has become a highlight of the pilgrimage:)



After 14km or so you will be ready to break your journey at Bhojbasa. Acclimatization is the order of the day, besides, you'll be knackered! You have to carry everything you need on this trek as all facilities and services are back in Gangotri, but bring an extra warm sleeping bag!! We stayed in tents and bedding was supplied but don't underestimate how cold it will be at night. That's coming from somebody used to colder climes!

It's just a further 4km or so to Gaumukh, but guess what, the slight altitude increase ensures you will be trekking at a respectful pace. Personally, I loved the reality that the closer we got the more challenging it became. I say challenging, not difficult - moderate fitness and a will to reach your destination should see one through! As we were  a party everybody looked out for each other and we all got through the tricky parts okay.

En route to Gaumukh we passed the mighty Shivling which is the ultimate source of Ganga before She emerges from the 'cow's ear' cave. Just take time to meditate here is an amazing and eternal experience that has stayed with me....

Very near our destination there was one solitary saddhu gentleman. I expected to see many saddhus but they were all either back at Gangotri or even further up, at Tapovan!
At Gaumukh everybody took rest and meditated, and of course got some water at source. The water is so icy it will cut off your circulation in seconds, so VERY quick dips were the order of the day.  I took sanctuary on a rock and would occasionally dip my feet into Ganga before retreating. We were instructed to stay at least 500 metres away from the cave due to the very real risk of landslide. Naturally we all sat about 501 metres away from it:)

A magical few hours in this environ and it was time to trek back to base camp. The trek back to Gangotri was quite literally a walk in the park, downhill all the ways. Soooo energised........

What an experience. Quite demanding but worth every effort.....the way I feel having accomplished it is I would definately do it again, should the opportunity arise. It's really something quite special and indescribable to be in such places. A heady combination of natural beauty, mythological importance  and mystical energies.

I leave the last word to Sadhguru:

"Before you are too weak or old you must meet and merge with the beloved Himalayas - it is my wish and my blessing."

Isha Dhyan Yatra website - many more photos here

11 November 2011

Pilgrimage: Isha Dhyan Yatra


The Himalayas,venerated as the abode of the Enlightened, have been a destination of great significance for spiritual seekers across the world
With the grace and guidance of Sadhguru Jaggi Vasudev, Isha Foundation conducts the Dhyan Yatra Program every year, taking participants on a pilgrimage through the sacred Himalayas.



So far, so spiritual!

A party of nearly 200 Isha meditators assembled at Kailash Gate in Delhi....and were assigned to their buses. A 'Magical Mystical School Trip' vibe filled the air!

This was not a trip I would fancy embarking by myself due to the terrifying Himalayan mountain roads! Every day meant long hours snaking around those treacherous bends at reasurringly modest speeds. Sheer vertigo-inducing drops could be witnessed for those lucky (?) window-seaters and it was all I could do to keep my imagination at bay!! Thankfully the driving crew have been repeatedly booked for each of the 15 years or so the Yatra has been staged and this was a massive help at relaxing our concerns.
Bus journeys themselves were fun! Singing, chanting, storytelling ,seat-hopping and snacking abounded.....we were encouraged to change seats on each bus journey which kept it interesting and sociable.

 


Haridwar.

Our first stop ......we stayed a couple of days as some participants were being initiated into the Shambhavi/Inner Engineering, which is the foundational Isha course and prerequisite for joining the Yatra. I loved this hotel with the huge central courtyard incorporating a temple and here we ate and had our gatherings. Plenty of time for sightseeing and dipping in Ganga, which we had opportunity to repeat at multiple destinations on this Yatra. Here the waters flow extremely fast!! I did not venture too far from the 'chain' and failed abysmally to swim across the short channel :(

Badrinath.

But, y'know, Haridwar is the foothills of Himalayas. The business end of our trip skyrocketed for me as we arrived in Badrinath. The approach to Badrinath was spellbindingly beautiful...jawdropping scenes and energies flooded the bus. As I recall we arrived at dusk so after supper a small party of us stepped out into the mountain air to visit the temple. It was closed but lovely to behold in the crisp moonlight and Himalayan high altitude ambiance! We returned early morning for Darshan. Definately make the effort to arrive at dawn as the crowds generate so quickly. That is, after you have seen the first rays of sunshine light up the Neelkanth Parbat and taken a 3-minute dip in the hot springs next to the temple.


Kedarnath.


For me this was the centrepiece of the trip.....the slightly daunting uphill 15km trek to the abode of Shiva...but such challenges only serve to enhance the experience. We had our mantra to accompany us. Having grown up without a car in my family, my only notion of walking long distances it to set out fast and just keep going with no let-up, no seated rest or heavy snacking, get it over and done with, so to speak! This was an approach which served me well as to my astonishment I was first in out party to arrive (after the caterers of course who spookily were always the last to leave a place and the first to arrive at the next destination).

 Kedarnath is even more overwhelming than Badrinath. My memories of the powers unleashed there will remain with me for a very long time. All I can say is they have to be experienced.....the temple is very powerfully consecrated. Fierce naga babas abound, so don't even think of waving your camera near them unless you can pay the tax! Oh, and if I've put you off because of the trek, don't worry, you can approach by horseback (save your legs and get a sore bottom instead). Definately bring a sleeping bag for Kedarnath!

 Naturally we had to trek the 15km back to 'civilisation' but one of the strange hallmarks of this pilgrimage is that we would endure, assimilate and then release aches and pains and always find reserves of energy when necessary. There was never a situation where participants had to bail or held up proceedings in a significant fashion...and this in an area where flexibility is key, due to the very real chance of landslides, freak rain and unpredictable weather patterns etc

Lots more to say about Kedarnath which I will cover in another post.

Guptakashi.
Uttarkashi.

Before we knew it we were half-way through our pilgrimage. Guptakashi is an unassuming market town but one that holds special mystical significance for Isha meditators as it is a place where our guru, Sadghuru, has “layed many eggs.”
 Uttarkashi also has a very powerful Shiva temple which has been consecrated very powerfully and said to date back 5000 years!! Unbelievable. We took full advantage of the energies with temple trips, group meditations and satsangs at every turn.
 


Gangotri.
The very source of the Ganges
 It's a slightly more arduous trek than the one at Kedarnath but no horses ferrying this route meant one doesn't have to swerve past the horses or sidestep their dung at every step!! And how lucky were we with the weather!? Gangotri has banned all hawkers, tinkers, tailors and spies. You would be amazed to learn it is a 10 km trek with no possibility of dosa or Thums Up. Just man, woman and nature journeying together to approach the source of the mighty Ganga. It's a beautiful thing. Sunny temperature but crisp air, the altitude only registered on the very last 4km, but first we would break our trek for base camp at Bhojasa, and go camping!!!! I will write about Gaumukh and Gangotri another time, but suffice to say it was the most perfect way to start winding up our pilgrimage through the Garwhals.

Rishikesh.
Rishi feels like my old stomping ground as I have spent many visits here before. So this was a great way to wind down the Yatra showing my new friends around and acclimatizing to the plains!

Summary
 I had considered visiting many of these places independently but was glad I joined the Yantra. Apart from being more fun, so many of the hassles I would have to have encountered by independent travelling were eliminated by virtue of the fact the Yantra is a well-oiled machine. The distances involved and the difficulty of the terrain make joining an organised trip a no-brainer.
With Isha of course the whole experience is overseen and infused by Sadhguru, the live guru that powerfully guides and links us to the sacred energies so we may experience the mystical dimensions in a direct fashion, bringing the myths and legends out of the manuscripts and into the here-and-now.  And you can't put a price on that.

For more information on the Isha Dhyan Yatra click HERE.

10 November 2011

Culture Shock: Slogan T-Shirts



You see them everyday in the masala mix of Indian street fashion....but some of these slogan t-shirts are eyewatering!
Funny, rude, obnoxious, inappropriate...some of these slogans could get you arrested back in London!
One would have to hope some of the more X-rated statements are a simple matter of 'lost in translation', or perhaps more likely, knowingly exploiting that grey area of grace which naturally  accompanies linguistics in a multilingual nation.
But for now, I salute these fashion warriors.......worriers!.......and it is always the guys!! They brighten up my day!

2 November 2011

Jesus Loves You:)

Re-introducing Boy George! London singing sensation BoyGeorge has been world famous since he exploded on the music scene in the early 1980s with his band Culture Club.
 In the early 90s George joined the Hare Krishnas and made a splendid Krishna-conscious anthem "Bow Down Mister" (which featured guest vocalist Asha Bhosle singing from the Bhagavad-gita).
Of course, Boy George is also a very successful DJ as well as singer.
One of his most recent releases is the beautiful song "Amazing Grace" and I was fortunate to direct/produce the promo videoclip for that, have a look at that here :)

Bless this Blog:)


1 November 2011

WHERE LIFE BEGINS


Here's a handful of ice from the Gangotri Glacier, the very source of the Ganges in Uttarakhand.
It seems an appropriate image to launch this crazy colourful site infused with Indian delights!
I'll definately be returning to the subject of Gangotri, and the amazing Char Dham pilgrimage before too long....

The Great Indian Train Journey!

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<Amritsar to Pathankot:>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

One of those wonderful everyday vignettes.....any train journey would have qualified, but this was the day I decided to get my camera out and capture it........



my only difficulty was deciding who to talk to first!! :)



Theyyam


The glory and grandeur of the Theyyam firedance, performed in the pre-dawn of a North Malabar temple in Kerala.

Namaste!

GIFS are welcome also?!



Work that Processor!:)