Srinagar! There is a whole heap of psychological trauma one must navigate before one arrives at this fabled shangri-la! The over-riding arc of concern seems to be 'Is it safe?' before I go there, and 'tell them it's safe' when I get there. Of course, I can only go by my own experience – I found Srinagar to be perfectly safe. It was the getting there that had me in trauma!!
Sharing a jeep from Jammu to Srinagar. It's the National Highway, so a well-maintained road, but perhaps because it was my first real road-trip beyond the Himalayan foothills, I was alarmed by the hairpin curves and sheer drops. The SCALE of the beauty on offer is tremendous. The highest mountains and the deepest valleys I can recall seeing. Perhaps the element of mortality clouding my senses heightened the appreciation. Reminds me of this quote:
“ beauty is nothing but the beginning of terror, that we are still able to bear”
(Rilke, Duino Elegies)
I could identify with that!!
We were finally deposited at Dal Lake after I had thanked my Lords many times over and resolved to FLY back to Delhi!

Away from the lake, Srinagar is mesmerisingly beautiful mostly thanks to the Mughal gardens that abound. I visited four and my camera got a workout! The flowers are something else......Interestingly, I was the only white foreigner in the gardens that day, so had the camera turned on me a fair few times too!
The city is quite vast. I covered lots by foot but to see most of the sites required a rickshaw tour.
The 3000 y.o.ancient Shiva temple of Shankaracharya Hill is stunning, and there are many beautiful mosques to visit including the unparalleled Jamia Masjid with its 370 wooden pillars.
Perhaps most intoxicating of all is the simple shrine for Jesus Christ! Khanyar Rozabal (Kan Yar Rosa Bal or Rauza Bal) , the tomb of Yuz Asaf. I had read the case for this being the actual resting place of Jesus on this website and you can see photos of the tomb on this website
It's in an unassuming part of town. The rickshawallah would not drive me to the spot but parked discreetly around the corner. He warned me against taking photos, and there is ample signage to dissuade one from doing so. I was surprised to find such a low-key set-up, with no visible security. Apart from 'local' security – a 4 year old boy raised the alarm and from that moment, it seems funny to say, but I could literally 'feel' all eyes on me! There is no entry to the shrine itself. A window (railed) looks on the tomb from the street, inside you can see banknotes which have been donated for maintenance I guess. Occasionally a local would walk by and bless themselves in passing.
The simple and dignified resting place for a great Saint, revered through generations of the local community. A world and belief system away from the official party line. If this is true, then it changes everything...it's a fascinating proposition.
All this plus.......there are a handful of amazing daytrips from Srinagar to explore the stunning landscapes of Kashmir. My favourite was a pony ride to an ice glacier in Sonmarg!
All this plus.......there are a handful of amazing daytrips from Srinagar to explore the stunning landscapes of Kashmir. My favourite was a pony ride to an ice glacier in Sonmarg!
Best of all, there's a Srinagar to suit every climate. Spring, summer, autumn and winter all paint vastly differing moods.
Next post will deal with Houseboat Fever!!
Next post will deal with Houseboat Fever!!
















